Happy New Year, Hmong style

Our guesthouse in Luang Prabang is rather snaz in a very understated and stylish way. The town itself is quaint and oozes old world colonial charm. Of course one would assume this would be the perfect destination and most ideal situation but on my first day here I was left feeling kind of flat and, dare I say, a little disappointed. The fam was happy and even kindly applauded my efforts at finding so many great places to stay and visit. Unfortunately the applause was met with my shameful admission of my discontent. I tried to explain myself calmly and kindly but I couldn't even really articulate what it was. I guess it all just felt like a bit of a French/Asian version of old Sydney town - like old Indochine town. It just felt too geared to tourists and not quite real somehow. I must say I was a bit tired (2 days on a luxury boat down the Mekong can really take it out of you) so that may have had something to do with it. Without hesitation Jed just said, "well, you're ungrateful and spoilt, Mum!". Leo looked crushed and Rich looked confused. I wished I'd just kept my ridiculous thoughts to myself and let them pass. You'll be relieved to know they did pass, and quick smart too. I'll tell you one thing for nothing, there's nothing like a Hmong New Year festival to knock some sense into a spoilt princess.
Our guide on the Mekong boat had mentioned in passing the Hmong (a Laos tribal group) festivities taking place on the outskirts of town. He explained it was something to do with young people meeting each other and also mentioned a curious ball throwing game that took place. He said everyone was welcome and it would be fine if we turned up. I'm not sure what you imagine when you think of such an event but I was thinking of something wholesome, serene and earthy, with wonderful costumes adorned with traditional hand stitched embroidery.
Equipped with our hand sanitizer and our sense if adventure we peddled off with our Aussie mates to find these tribal celebrations. It was a little ride out of town, over an old bridge and down a dirt track. What we found I wouldn't have imagined in my wildest dreams. It was a huge, dusty field, with hundreds of make shift plastic stalls housing various games ranging from throwing darts at balloons in order to win a fluffy toy to an odd kind of bingo. Some sort of Hmong techno was blaring from enormous speakers and there was food of all descriptions, grilled chickens feet appearing to be the special dish of the day. Amongst the Easter Show like surroundings there were Hmong people dressed up in all their finery. Not a hand stitched outfit in sight but all Chinese synthetic fabric in lurid and wonderful colors, complete with enormous hats with bright colored poms and finished off with plastic high heeled shoes for the women. Some men where in traditional looking polyester gear and others where just in tight shiny pants and fitted jackets. Dressed to the nines and looking sharp!!! Everyone looked so dolled up and gorgeous and there did appear to be a great deal of young people courting and flirting!!!! There were stalls that were set up as enormous photo booths with fake flowery outdoor scenery in the background. Lipstick was being applied at an alarming rate and people flocked to get their photos taken. Our kids spotted the most enormous jumping castle I've ever seen and made a beeline for that. On our way back to our bikes we came across a long line of young men and women standing in rows opposite each other taking part in the courtship ritual that consisted of throwing tennis balls at one another. It couldn't have been more different from how I had imagined and I loved every loud, brash, plastic, shiny, colourful, full on minute of it. It was real and I was happy.